Gambit reviews Company Burger

Review: The Company Burger

Ian McNulty on the Freret Street hamburger specialist

New Orleans, LA March 20, 2012

The burger obsession may have found its local high water mark at The Company Burger, a hip, new counter-service joint where the single-minded focus is so intense it’s almost spooky.

There are a few different burger options here — including lamb and turkey — though owner Adam Biderman seems to have included them begrudgingly. To him, the whole restaurant is about a single item, called the company burger or simply “the burger.” Its composition is not up for debate, much less customization.

You get a pair of thin patties, an unremarkable blend of chuck and brisket, each packed loosely to allow a considerable amount of juice to ooze out. Over this goes American cheese melted into gooey yellow glory which warms a layer of red onion, allowing its essence to seep into the meat. Pickles go on top and the squishy, puffy, superior bun proves durable enough to contain the burger’s potent grease quotient.It’s compact and precise, fitting in a modest cardboard tray as snug as a Lego block, and even if it’s not exactly pretty, it is full of flavor and the glistening mouthfeel makes this burger a thing of beauty.