Ancora Review in Gambit

Review: Ancora Pizza & Salumeria

Ian McNulty on the Freret Street home of Neapolitan pizza

by Ian McNulty @LouisianaRamble
Photo by Cheryl Gerber

It seems the most familiar foods can invite the most debate — and offer the most potential for controversy. Pizza is one of them. We know pizza and we love it. We have particular expectations and opinions about it, and in some obsessive cases, we might even harbor strong convictions.

That is how, with a short menu and just a handful of ingredients, Ancora Pizzeria and Salumeria has managed to create a stir since opening last summer.

This is not your general purpose pizzeria. It doesn’t take phone orders (though now it is possible, if not especially encouraged, to order takeout from the bar). If pepperoni has ever made an appearance here, it must have been as a special.

Rather, Ancora is passionately specific in its devotion to Neapolitan pizza — the manna of Naples, Italy — and just about everything revolves around the wood-burning oven in the corner of the open kitchen.