Esquire loves Company Burger

Pableaux Johnson
The love of a sandwich must, I suppose, be an unrequited one; and so grilled cheese and bacon has never stopped to think about how much it means to me.” So began the best essayI ever wrote, a despondent love letter to my favorite food of all time. Obsessing over anything is by definition a lonely business, unleavened with communication or companionship. Generally, the temporary appearance of other beings largely serves as a cue for mindless anxiety monologues, the kind that require no real response. And yet…Reading all the entriesfor National Grilled Cheese Month on Eat Like a Man has made me feel somewhat less alone. Not that they speak very deeply to me; in fact, it wouldn’t be going too far to say that I that a feel a violent aversion to them, and really, to any grilled cheese sandwich not of the most rigidly orthodox kind. This is an infant food after all, and peevish, dogmatic nerds like myself base their whole adult lives on enshrining and overvaluing the shit they happened to eat when they were kids. I admit this readily, but happily there are other men like me out there who feel the same way.One such is Adam Biderman. The young proprietor of The Company Burger in New Orleans was one of the authors of the celebrated, sought-after Holman and Finch burger in Atlanta, and his boutique operation in the crescent city has been hailed as one of the best in America. I wandered in to the place one time, knowing very little about it; Biderman recognized me right away and spoke in the vehement way that people do who believe in their opinions a little too strongly. I will save my Company Burger experience for another day. But one way I could feel deep call to deep was in what appeared to be a throwaway on The Company Burger’s menu: an absolutely ravishing, utterly classical, intensely greasy and dense grilled cheese and bacon sandwich. Why is it so good? I will let Biderman describe for himself.