Review: Wayfare on Freret

Review: Wayfare

Ian McNulty finds a distinctive deli on the Freret Street restaurant row

As Reviewed by Ian McNulty for the Gambit, June 25, 2013

I’d come to rely on the unexpected at Wayfare, where during a string of visits I’d found ratatouille reworked as a sandwich and meat pies stuffed with corned beef one day and moo shu pork another. But I was still surprised by the torta gazpacho, a soup/sandwich combo we might have seen long ago if Salvador Dali had pursued cuisine instead of abstract art.

The torta is a pressed, Mexican-style bolillo loaf with red peppers, cucumber and manchego. It’s sliced and both pieces are stuck upright like stubby towers in a shallow moat of white gazpacho, a velvety pottage with flavors of almonds and green grapes that worked like a chilled dip for the crusty, plump sandwich. I did not imagine a lunch like this when I walked in that afternoon, but I’ve been talking about it ever since.